![]() ![]() One caveat with the Zeiss hood: it’s large enough that it will block a good chunk of the lower, right hand portion of the frame. My two favourite lenses for street photography About equivalent to 28mm & 50mm lenses respectively. The Fuji XF 18mm & Zeiss Touit 32mm, hoods installed. I’ll look for my subjects in city crowds within those distances, and I know I’ll get anything within that zone, in focus. Everything in the white bar below is in nominally in focus. ![]() The viewfinder in both OVF and EVF modes as well as the LCD monitor does, however, have a DOF scale displayed at the bottom.Īt f11, for example, if I set the focus at just over 2 meters, I’m in focus at near distance down to just over 1.5 meters, and out to 4 meters at the far end. Unlike the 14mm or 23mm lenses, the 18mm doesn’t have a depth of field scale on the lens barrel. This gives me a lot of depth of field to play with, but the lens is not so stopped down that the softening effects of diffraction becomes detrimental. For outdoors, I usually set the f-stop at either f8 or f11. While it does focus fast, I prefer not to autofocus this lens at all. But for street use, it’s still a superb lens and shouldn’t be overlooked because it doesn’t score well in pixel-peeping reviews.įor a more in-depth review of this overlooked Fuji lens, you can read the article on the XF 18mm here – Optically, it’s not Fuji’s finest when it comes to high resolution and lack of distortion. It has a very short lag time from shutter release to capture, compared to some of the other XF lenses. It’s the second smallest lens in Fuji’s line-up, and the fastest focusing of the original three lenses for the X system. My Go-To lens for shooting on a crowded, city street is Fuji’s handy XF 18mm f2. There are two ways in which I use the Manual Focus setting, and it depends upon the lens.įocus for 18mm (about a 28mm-equivalent) or any Wide-Angle lens Zeiss Touit 32mm f1.8 lens (50mm-equivalent).The combination of a 28mm-e and 50mm-e for street use will cover virtually everything I would want to capture. This gives me a touch more distance in thinner crowds and/or when I want to be more selective with my focus. While that covers probably 80% of how I’d like to capture street scenes, the 18mm/28mm-e is quite wide and sometimes I’d feel more comfortable with a 50mm equivalent.įor more versatility, I’ll add a second camera with a standard focal length lens. My bare-bones camera equipment for street photography on busy, city streets or crowded events, is: Namely, the shoulder strap, camera bag or pouch, and the importance of great footwear. In addition, I’ll also cover the equally important set-up choices beyond the camera and lens. ![]() Very similar, although not identical, in the way I shot with the Leica M rangefinder. With this set-up, I’ve found the X-Pro1 becomes a quick-reacting, responsive and invisible partner for me, when I’m shooting on the street. But it’s what I’ve figured out from using the camera on the street, over dozens of hours. This is by no means the only the way to use the X-Pro1 for street work. Over this past year since I’ve owned the Fuji X-Pro1, I’ve discovered a way to set up the camera to make it work for me. The Fuji X-Pro1 with the XF 18mm f2 lens – one the best set-ups I’ve found for street photography ![]()
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